The Balkans beckoned again in 1997

Two years ago, four inches of snow fell on a late April evening in Bosnia as this TA officer worked on the Corps Logistic Operations desk in the Alliance Rapid Reaction Corps (ARRC) Logistics HQ, under the command of General Sir Michael Walker. A brief account of that experience and an article by COMARRC appeared in B&C 86 in Jun 96. (See From The Commander in Bosnia.) Those 6 months were a rare experience for a TA Officer. General Angus Ramsey described the work of IFOR under General Sir Michael Walker as having 'gone into an uneven seam in the carpet of history and stamped on it.'

And now, as military retirement age beckons in 1999, mobilised for the second time in 24 years of TA soldiering, I have a different experience of the Balkans. In a post unique in the British Army, as Staff Officer TA/Reserves (SO3 TA/Reserves), the job description defines the role as 'encompassing mobilisation, demobilisation and extensions of service. It also serves as an interface between UK and Theatre and as point of contact.'

Understanding that meeting incoming TA and Reservists at the airport was part of the job, my younger daughter Elfrida (see Olivia in the Austin Healey) observed: 'So you are going to be a holiday rep!'

Prior to deployment in December 1997, a week was spent at HQ Land Command at Wilton in Wiltshire. After a session of 'Interactive Computer Training' one afternoon, my pipe was at full steam in one of the very few smoking offices, door wide open, when a voice from the doorway announced: 'Is that a pipe?' It was General Sir Michael Walker, Commander in Chief, Land Command!
(Click here for an embellishment of that remark, in true keeping with the Editorial Rule of the Norfolk Section of the Britannia and Castle :
To qualify for inclusion there is only one rule - something described must have been said to have happened.
The authority is the Editor, British Army Review No 114 Dec 96, `If the facts don`t fit the legend, print the legend’.)

My responsibilities are for over 500 TA and Reservist men and women serving alongside 5000 British Regular Army, Royal Marine, Royal Navy, Royal Fleet Auxiliary and Royal Air Force male and female counterparts. In the British led Sector, where 19 Mech Bde handed over in April to 3 UK DIV, there are soldiers from countries across the globe. They range from Canada through Czechoslovakia to Malaysia and New Zealand. In addition there are several thousand more troops in the French Sector with its HQ in Sarajevo and in the American Sector based at Tuzla.

The IFOR (Implementation Force) mandate expired in December 1996 and the UN replaced it with the NATO led SFOR (Stabilisation Force) in what is described as 'Theatre.'

In 18 months of SFOR, 36 countries contributed to an amazing reconstruction. The Former Warring Factions, now diplomatically named 'Entities', continue to comply with the terms of the Dayton Peace Accord. With enhanced freedom of movement and economic reconstruction, this is an indicator of the effectiveness of SFOR in this war-torn land.

The 9/12 Lancers from Swanton Morley in Norfolk on horseback, troops on foot and in wheeled and tracked vehicles have continuously patrolled the 1400 km Zone of Separation and maintained a secure environment in more than 51000 sq km of territory. 64 bridges have been installed or repaired. The rail network into Europe is open. Civil control of the airspace and airports is progressing well with the aim of opening airfields again to civil traffic.

Basic necessities of water, gas and electricity have all been restored with a partnership between SFOR and the municipality. Children are back in school and there is freedom of movement for everyone. Above all, the killing has stopped and the people of Bosnia have hope for the future.

Against that sober background, my job involves a lot of travel, mostly by helicopter, over a beautiful landscape of snow covered forested mountains and turquoise rivers. Any journey 'Up Country' involves packing an overnight survival bag, rations, helmet, body armour, morphine, pistol and ammunition. Much reconstruction is evident but many settlements remain utterly deserted and because of mines, unapproachable. Parking on the grass verge is forbidden as the risk of striking a mine remains high.

The beautiful city of Dubrovnik, devastated in the Balkan Wars, has been restored to the extent it is difficult to separate the very old from the very new.

Under intense fire the medieval pedestrian bridge at Mostar collapsed into the river but in May 1998 Hungarian divers were recovering the masonry in preparation for rebuilding.

Sarajevo reveals extremes. Many people have money but many more survive on what they can grow on steep slopes, only demined since Easter. The wrecked trams in the depot and shattered buildings remain as they were 2 years ago. (See A TA Officer in Bosnia and Sarajevo Shuttle for an account of Sarajevo in 1996, just after the war ended.) But there are new buildings and new traffic lights and a regular, safe tram service runs along what became known as 'Sniper Alley'. I never dreamed I would ever walk over the bridge where Archduke Ferdinand was shot, and amble through the city at night, full of people quietly enjoying the outdoor bars and brightly lit shop windows with Austrian airlines advertising tours. Mind you, I was in uniform with another Brit (as the rules decree) and openly carrying a loaded sidearm!

Operation LODESTAR is a 24-hour-a-day affair. At the Brigadier’s Christmas Day morning brief I divulge, without much fear of a breach of the Official Secrets Act, one item from the Intelligence and Security brief. 'At 3am the roving patrol found against the fence a bag containing weapons; 5 RPG, 4 AK7, 3 AKM, 2 T72 and a partridge in a pear tree!'

The Brigadier voiced what most of us had wondered: 'I thought for a moment you were being serious!'

My own top-floor office, newly fitted with air-conditioning for the forthcoming heat, backed by shadowed hills, snow capped in winter, that lead to Dubrovnik, a texture of colours especially at dusk, looks out over the stunning Adriatic Coast. One morning the Clerk was at his desk cleaning his rifle. I heard a loud hiss. It was LCpl Khan using an aerosol can of pressurised air to dust his rifle! I wonder what the late Royal Norfolk RSM Winkie Fitt would have made of that?

From my south facing accommodation, the view, past the pines and palms, is of the sea and an island 800m across the water. The balcony of the splendid Officers’ Mess, formerly Tito’s winter palace, is a gentle stone's lob from the lapping waters of the island strewn Dalmatian Coast of the Adriatic. After meals I walk down a few steps to the water’s edge and, now that the warmer weather has arrived, see shoals of fish. RAF officers on CASEVAC standby regularly play petanque on a court below the balcony near a flagpole from which flies the Union Flag.

It certainly beats the teaching from which I retired in 1997! So much so that I have extended my service until Dec. On the day of writing this article I saw off the senior British Officer at the airport. He handed a copy of his poem 'Remember SFOR', along with the trappings of his office, slippers, shawl and Bath Chair, to this younger chap who now carries the severe responsibilities that accompany the designation 'Oldest Soldier in Theatre'.

Malcolm’s poem sums up the business of SFOR and will probably strike a chord with anyone who has served a worthwhile cause.

This is in blue as a reminder of the forces 'blueys' (Forces Airletters, obtainable free from a Post Office) which not require a stamp.

But beware, says David Reed, of Cambridgeshire sub-postmasters who direct you to the dodgy videoshop nearby!

This below is in true keeping with the Editorial Rule of the Norfolk Section of the Britannia and Castle :
To qualify for inclusion there is only one rule - something described must have been said to have happened.
The authority is the Editor, British Army Review No 114 Dec 96, `If the facts don`t fit the legend, print the legend’.)

In Oct 2000 I sent this below to Colin Allder and Mike Vokes, with whom I served in Bosnia with Gen Mike Walker at the helm of the ARRC, just after the signing of the Dayton Peace Accord.

Autumn means it's time again to start typing the Britannia and Castle and I was faced with the monumental task of editing 13 pages which formed the masterful address by Gen Sir Michael Walker at Maj Gen Sir David Thorne's Memorial Service in Norwich Cathedral. He had given me them in the Cloisters.

So on Tue morning I thought, why not telephone The Great Man.

So I did, said who I was, reminding him we had spoken in July at the service.
He said: 'Ah, yes, John. I remember you. In late 97 I was walking along the top corridor at Wilton with the German and US Ambassadors and was approaching Richard Warren's office. There was a cloud of smoke emanating. I put my head in and it was you with your pipe. I clearly recall saying: 'That pipe smells good. If you are still here in 10 minutes when I've got rid of these two, I'll come back and join you. You can tell me what Colin Allder is up to. And also about that other TA chap, Mike Vokes, with you in Kiseljak. Don't you both hold a Balkans record for ageism?'

He nipped out into the corridor and I also recall that his next words to the 2 Ambassadors and the massive entourage were: 'Move On.'

Anyway, on the telephone on Tue, saying I would really appreciate an e-mail copy of the text of his address at the service, there was a short pause. Then he said: 'That might be difficult. It's on an Intranet or something and may take a while to find and send.'
'I don't go to press for 3 weeks so that's no problem.'
'Oh, will this afternoon do?'

And it arrived! What a player!

* The B&C (Britannia and Castle) is the periodic journal of the Royal Norfolk, Suffolk and Cambs Regtl Associations.