KOREA
REVISITED APRIL 2002
Bill Buller
22482207 BKVA and ex-1 R Norfolk, suffers from
glaucoma and does not see very well. Nevertheless, that
did not stop him from sending the obituary
for his brother Frank and the following article as
hard copy and on a floppy disc - typed by his wife Ivy!
Remarkably, Ivy had never touched a typewriter nor
turned on a computer until a year ago when she commenced
a computer course. Congratulations Ivy, you prove it is
never to late to learn.
‘I have always wanted to go back to Korea and see the
progress they have made in restoring their country since
it was devastated during the War.
And fortunately I have been able to do just that with
one of my ex-army and Korean Veteran mate George Daws who
I must say was very good and helped me a lot as I do not
always see very well now as I have glaucoma. Thanks
George.
First, may I congratulate Frank Fellows of the British
Korean Veterans’ Association and the (Korean) Korean
War Veterans’ Association and any one concerned on a
very well organised trip. Well done.
After a very good flight with the Korean airways and a
nights kip and breakfast in the hotel we were on or way
for our first day out, We were taken to a folk village
where we were given demonstrations and people were
dressed in national costume. Houses were built in
different styles. It was very interesting. Then we had
lunch in a local restaurant.
There were a lot of school children about. They were
very smart and treated us with great respect. It was a
lovely day.
On Day 2 we were taken to the Korean National Cemetery
where the names of all the Korean War dead are engraved
on a huge wall. A wreath was laid here. From there we
went to the USA War memorial for a Ceremony and a very
interesting tour of the museum. After lunch we were
taken to the Ministry of Defence and were given a talk
on the current security of Korea. We returned to the
hotel for a rest and in the evening we were entertained
to a Banquet at the Novotel Ambassador Hotel, hosted by
Gen (Retd) Lee Sang Hoon, Chairman of the Korean
Veterans’ Association. We had our allocated seats at
the dinning table on which was placed a envelope
containing a Ambassador of Peace Certificate printed in
English and Korean, cuff links and tie clip bearing the
Korean Emblem in a velvet Box along with other
information. Before the meal was served we were
presented and a Retired Korean General hung around our
neck an Ambassador of Peace Medal. After a lovely meal
we were entertained by musicians from the Korean army.
On Day 3 we stored our luggage, packed a small overnight
bag and were taken by coach to the border at camp
Boniface (Panmunjon) for a briefing and to see where the
treaty was signed. We had 4 former British prisoners of
War with us so we went with them to the freedom bridge
which they had last crossed 49 years ago from North
Korea. From there we caught the train from Seoul to
Pusan (Busan), staying at the Hotel Marriot.
Day 4 was a very moving day. George and I got up early
and had a walk along the beach before breakfast. The day’s
visit was to the UN Cemetery where we laid a wreath. The
Canadian War veterans were in our party and they also
had a ceremony to dedicate their new monument to their
fallen. After these services we had time to visit the
graves of our British comrades. I have several photos if
any one would like one, listed at the end. It was a very
emotional day. One lady had gone to find the grave of
her dad. Four other ladies had taken some soil from
their parents’ grave to scatter on that of their
brothers. The Graves are looked after very well and each
was marked with a flag. From there we caught the train
back to our hotel in Seoul in time to get our case out
of storage and enjoy a evening meal and a drink or two.
On Day 5 we departed for main post Yongsan USFK. This
was a Veterans Appreciation Commemoration given to us by
the USA including a first class lunch. We were given a
talk on security etc, this time by Gen Swartz during
which he said that if there was anywhere we wanted to go
he would try to arrange it. Some of us asked if it was
possible to go to Hill 355 or the Hook. He said he would
try but he would have to get in touch with the North
Koreans as it was in the demilitarised zone which is
quite sensitive. During the day there was a big Parade
by the Korean Army, US Army, Canadian and British
Veterans. Comments were made on how smart the War
veterans looked. After a shopping trip and a short rest
we were off again for a Reception at the Ambassador’s
Residence, hosted by the British Ambassador and his
wife. We were made very welcome and by now my trousers
were beginning to feel as if they had shrunk as the food
was again first class. Another good night! When we got
back to the Hotel there was a message waiting for us
from Gen Swartz. True to his word, he had arranged for a
visit the next day to the Sami-ch'on Valley. We were thrilled, as you
can imagine, and we did not sleep much that night.
On Day 6 we were to wear no type of uniform and had to
have a armed escort as well as the Rock Army (South
Korean Army). Once there we could see the Hook to our
Left and Hill 355 to our right in the far distance.
Luckily for me the US Major who escorted us had a very
powerful pair of binoculars that he let me borrow. To go
back to this part of Korea and see it now, albeit
through binoculars, meant so much I cannot put it into
words. On the coach back to the hotel we were again
given a memento lapel badge from a member of their own
Korean Veterans’ Association
Day 7 was the occasion of a visit to Solmari for a
memorial service and to lay a wreath in honour of the
Gloucestershire Regiment and 170 Light Infantry (Mortar)
Bty Royal Artillery. It was after this ceremony that the
Korean students were awarded their scholarships, two of
whom are sponsored by the British Korean Veterans. The
students wish it to be known how much they appreciate
them and they told us how much they enjoyed being in
Korea and how good an education they were receiving. We
returned to our hotel for the last night and a drink
with the boys in our favourite watering hole.
It was a fantastic trip I will never forget and it
brought tears to my eyes to realise how grateful the
Korean people are.
Listed below are the graves for
which I have photographs. As I do not see too well
they are not all perfect but you are welcome to have any
of the negatives.
22477716 Pte
Maurice A Bell, 22477748 Pte
John Woodgate, 22488514 Pte Peter
J Codling, 22472223 Colin TA Church Pte,
22444467 LCpl Richard Cocks,
22468452 Pte Noel
A Haynes, 22614561 Pte Herbert W Graveling,
22442106 Pte Robert A Ketteringham,
14458571 Pte Francis J Ferriday,
14475633 Cpl Edward W Smith and
22439680 Pte Arthur JA Bullman.I am not
sure of the Regimental numbers of: Pte DC Webster, 2Lt John RE
Berney and LCpl ME
Barden Black Watch (Late Royal Norfolk
Regt).’
For the
photographs please write via the Norfolk Section Editor. |
Concerning the photograph of the grave of Colin
Church, in B&C 93 Dec 99,
Jerry Willmott, 10 Pl, D Coy, 1st Bn The Royal
Norfolk Regt, wrote Korean
Odyssey 1999 about a return he made to
Korea in Apr 99 with John
Denny, Gillie Gilchrist (died 2000)
and Ray Raynor.
Included was: ‘I stood by the grave of Colin Church.
I was also 19 and a Corporal Section Leader when he
joined 10 Pl as a replacement on a hill close by. 355
was also the hill on which he died. As I stood looking
at all that was left of him, a bronze marker and a patch
of beautifully trimmed grass, I thought of all that had
happened to me since he had died. I had enjoyed a career
and moderate success in the Army and Fire Services. I
had married and remain so today 40 years on, I have sons
(who in their turn became soldiers jumping out of
aeroplanes, serving in Northern Ireland and alternately
filling me with fear and pride). I have that ultimate of
blessings, granddaughters and a grandson and I had
parents who did not suffer the great loss that Colin's
parents suffered. I am now, nearly fifty years on from
those dark days of 1951 and after many joys and sorrows,
successes and failures, comfortably retired with my
family. Colin Church had none of those things and I
could so easily have been lying in his place. I am truly
grateful for what I have had and very much aware of what
Colin and so many others of so many nationalities on
both sides of this "forgotten War" were
deprived of.’
Jerry
concluded: ‘I have made a pilgrimage, "to a
sacred place" and I am stronger for it.’ |
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