Korea Revisited 2002
by Bill Buller
Issue 98 Jun 02
Norfolk Section
The Britannia and Castle
     
KOREA REVISITED APRIL 2002
Bill Buller 22482207 BKVA and ex-1 R Norfolk, suffers from glaucoma and does not see very well. Nevertheless, that did not stop him from sending the obituary for his brother Frank and the following article as hard copy and on a floppy disc - typed by his wife Ivy! Remarkably, Ivy had never touched a typewriter nor turned on a computer until a year ago when she commenced a computer course. Congratulations Ivy, you prove it is never to late to learn.
‘I have always wanted to go back to Korea and see the progress they have made in restoring their country since it was devastated during the War.
And fortunately I have been able to do just that with one of my ex-army and Korean Veteran mate George Daws who I must say was very good and helped me a lot as I do not always see very well now as I have glaucoma. Thanks George.
First, may I congratulate Frank Fellows of the British Korean Veterans’ Association and the (Korean) Korean War Veterans’ Association and any one concerned on a very well organised trip. Well done.
After a very good flight with the Korean airways and a nights kip and breakfast in the hotel we were on or way for our first day out, We were taken to a folk village where we were given demonstrations and people were dressed in national costume. Houses were built in different styles. It was very interesting. Then we had lunch in a local restaurant.
There were a lot of school children about. They were very smart and treated us with great respect. It was a lovely day.
On Day 2 we were taken to the Korean National Cemetery where the names of all the Korean War dead are engraved on a huge wall. A wreath was laid here. From there we went to the USA War memorial for a Ceremony and a very interesting tour of the museum. After lunch we were taken to the Ministry of Defence and were given a talk on the current security of Korea. We returned to the hotel for a rest and in the evening we were entertained to a Banquet at the Novotel Ambassador Hotel, hosted by Gen (Retd) Lee Sang Hoon, Chairman of the Korean Veterans’ Association. We had our allocated seats at the dinning table on which was placed a envelope containing a Ambassador of Peace Certificate printed in English and Korean, cuff links and tie clip bearing the Korean Emblem in a velvet Box along with other information. Before the meal was served we were presented and a Retired Korean General hung around our neck an Ambassador of Peace Medal. After a lovely meal we were entertained by musicians from the Korean army.
On Day 3 we stored our luggage, packed a small overnight bag and were taken by coach to the border at camp Boniface (Panmunjon) for a briefing and to see where the treaty was signed. We had 4 former British prisoners of War with us so we went with them to the freedom bridge which they had last crossed 49 years ago from North Korea. From there we caught the train from Seoul to Pusan (Busan), staying at the Hotel Marriot.
Day 4 was a very moving day. George and I got up early and had a walk along the beach before breakfast. The day’s visit was to the UN Cemetery where we laid a wreath. The Canadian War veterans were in our party and they also had a ceremony to dedicate their new monument to their fallen. After these services we had time to visit the graves of our British comrades. I have several photos if any one would like one, listed at the end. It was a very emotional day. One lady had gone to find the grave of her dad. Four other ladies had taken some soil from their parents’ grave to scatter on that of their brothers. The Graves are looked after very well and each was marked with a flag. From there we caught the train back to our hotel in Seoul in time to get our case out of storage and enjoy a evening meal and a drink or two.
On Day 5 we departed for main post Yongsan USFK. This was a Veterans Appreciation Commemoration given to us by the USA including a first class lunch. We were given a talk on security etc, this time by Gen Swartz during which he said that if there was anywhere we wanted to go he would try to arrange it. Some of us asked if it was possible to go to Hill 355 or the Hook. He said he would try but he would have to get in touch with the North Koreans as it was in the demilitarised zone which is quite sensitive. During the day there was a big Parade by the Korean Army, US Army, Canadian and British Veterans. Comments were made on how smart the War veterans looked. After a shopping trip and a short rest we were off again for a Reception at the Ambassador’s Residence, hosted by the British Ambassador and his wife. We were made very welcome and by now my trousers were beginning to feel as if they had shrunk as the food was again first class. Another good night! When we got back to the Hotel there was a message waiting for us from Gen Swartz. True to his word, he had arranged for a visit the next day to the Sami-ch'on Valley. We were thrilled, as you can imagine, and we did not sleep much that night.
On Day 6 we were to wear no type of uniform and had to have a armed escort as well as the Rock Army (South Korean Army). Once there we could see the Hook to our Left and Hill 355 to our right in the far distance. Luckily for me the US Major who escorted us had a very powerful pair of binoculars that he let me borrow. To go back to this part of Korea and see it now, albeit through binoculars, meant so much I cannot put it into words. On the coach back to the hotel we were again given a memento lapel badge from a member of their own Korean Veterans’ Association
Day 7 was the occasion of a visit to Solmari for a memorial service and to lay a wreath in honour of the Gloucestershire Regiment and 170 Light Infantry (Mortar) Bty Royal Artillery. It was after this ceremony that the Korean students were awarded their scholarships, two of whom are sponsored by the British Korean Veterans. The students wish it to be known how much they appreciate them and they told us how much they enjoyed being in Korea and how good an education they were receiving. We returned to our hotel for the last night and a drink with the boys in our favourite watering hole.
It was a fantastic trip I will never forget and it brought tears to my eyes to realise how grateful the Korean people are.
Listed below are the graves for which I have photographs. As I do not see too well they are not all perfect but you are welcome to have any of the negatives.
22477716 Pte Maurice A Bell, 22477748 Pte
John Woodgate, 22488514 Pte Peter J Codling, 22472223 Colin TA Church Pte, 22444467 LCpl Richard Cocks, 22468452 Pte Noel A Haynes, 22614561 Pte Herbert W Graveling, 22442106 Pte Robert A Ketteringham, 14458571 Pte Francis J Ferriday, 14475633 Cpl Edward W Smith and 22439680 Pte Arthur JA Bullman.

I am not sure of the Regimental numbers of: Pte DC Webster, 2Lt John RE Berney and LCpl ME Barden Black Watch (Late Royal Norfolk Regt).’

For the photographs please write via the Norfolk Section Editor.

Concerning the photograph of the grave of Colin Church, in B&C 93 Dec 99, Jerry Willmott, 10 Pl, D Coy, 1st Bn The Royal Norfolk Regt, wrote Korean Odyssey 1999 about a return he made to Korea in Apr 99 with John Denny, Gillie Gilchrist (died 2000) and Ray Raynor. Included was: ‘I stood by the grave of Colin Church. I was also 19 and a Corporal Section Leader when he joined 10 Pl as a replacement on a hill close by. 355 was also the hill on which he died. As I stood looking at all that was left of him, a bronze marker and a patch of beautifully trimmed grass, I thought of all that had happened to me since he had died. I had enjoyed a career and moderate success in the Army and Fire Services. I had married and remain so today 40 years on, I have sons (who in their turn became soldiers jumping out of aeroplanes, serving in Northern Ireland and alternately filling me with fear and pride). I have that ultimate of blessings, granddaughters and a grandson and I had parents who did not suffer the great loss that Colin's parents suffered. I am now, nearly fifty years on from those dark days of 1951 and after many joys and sorrows, successes and failures, comfortably retired with my family. Colin Church had none of those things and I could so easily have been lying in his place. I am truly grateful for what I have had and very much aware of what Colin and so many others of so many nationalities on both sides of this "forgotten War" were deprived of.’

Jerry concluded: ‘I have made a pilgrimage, "to a sacred place" and I am stronger for it.’

See: Korea Archives and Korean Odyssey 1999

Editorial Rule
To qualify for inclusion there is only one rule - something described must have been said to have happened.
The authority is the Editor, British Army Review No 114 Dec 96, `If the facts don`t fit the legend, print the legend’.

Rule Britannia!

Site edited and maintained by Major JL Raybould TD
Editor, Norfolk Section, The Britannia and Castle
B&C Norfolk Editor